Wednesday, May 22, 2013

On schools


Krabi Anuban School

So I'm a teacher now. They gave me a desk in the teachers room and introduced me to the other teachers, most of whom are middle aged women who take delight in feeding me and asking me personal questions.

If you're curious, thought I'd take you through a typical day at the school. I arrive around 7:30. My first class isn't until 8:45, but if I arrive early I can watch the opening ceremony. It is unlike anything that I have seen in the states. At 8:00, the PA plays the national anthem and students are corralled into formation according to grade. Students then stand at attention while the director offers some words of encouragement (at least I assume that's what he's talking about, he could be telling the students and staff about a crazy dream he had last night for all I know) After the director's words, the marching band plays a song and the students march in place. The flag is then raised and the students sing the national anthem (again) while the marching band plays. The ceremony is concluded and the students march off the parade ground to the tune of “Its a small world”, “Doe a deer” and the theme song from Barney and Friends

The morning's ritual of indoctrination is but one manifestation of the Thai Education System's wholehearted endorsement of discipline, structure and hierarchy. The hierarchy of the school is not left to anybody's imagination or dispute. There is a poster hanging outside the office denoting who is in charge and who is beneath who.

Mr. Big has expressed his concern that people do not take initiative. They shrug, “Its not my job.” He also told me that the hierarchy in place stifles the innovative ideas of the bottom members. If somebody has a good idea, it must be approved by the upper echelons in order to be realized. At this point, credit for the idea is attributed to the high ups. In other words, the hierarchy is a system where innovative ideas are not necessarily rewarded and plurality of opinion is not encouraged.

As bizarre and disturbing as these the early military training is, I found the mandatory religious exercises to be more so. Students spend the two days before school begins at the local Buddhist temple, listening to the monk, chanting, singing, watching videos, making donations. All well and good except that 30% of the student body practice Islam, not Buddhism. I asked Mr. Big if maybe the Muslim students went to the mosque instead. No. All the students go to the temple. Why? This seemed to be a harder idea to communicate. From what I understood of Mr. Big's answer, the students go to the temple now, because they might not go to temple later. It did not see odd to Mr. Big that Muslim students should have to attend a Buddhist function or that a public school sponsor a religious ceremony. I found this a little inconsistent because the school makes other accommodation for Muslim students such as not serving pork in the school cafeteria.

This is what I have gathered about religion in Thai culture so far. Thailand is a Buddhist country. Not only in the sense that most of the people who live here are Buddhists, but that the state itself practices Buddhism. Federal decisions are guided by the tenets of Buddhism. Everything from foreign policy to school organization. The students attend a Buddhist ceremony because they attend a public school not in spite of it. Thailand is a theocracy. But I haven't found this to be a bad thing. If anything, Thailand demonstrates that a state, founded on religious principles, can be a peaceful and tolerant despite some idiosyncratic laws like it being illegal to send the image of the Buddha or the King in the mail.

But this is an entry about the Thai Education System and Krabi Anuban. The countries that are going to be successful in the coming decades are those that train their students in critical thinking and creative problem solving. This has been said before with in greater detail and eloquence by the likes of Noam Chomsky and Ken Robinson, but I don't think that the importance of these principles can be understated. An education system that mandates obedience to authority without critical perspective and problem solving amounts to rote memorization fails the future of its country.

It is not my intention to pass judgment (though I am only human). Instead of asking, “What is the matter with this system and how can I change it?” I hope that I can maintain the perspective of objectivity and ask, “Why is this the way it is and what can I learn from it.” Certainly, there are some benefits of a system that encourages order and conformity. For one thing, people who can be made to obey make excellent workers. There are also benefits of living within the hierarchy. There is comfort of knowing one's place in a community and there is value in feeling needed. The system demands a high amount of integrity and responsibility of those member in the upper echelons of society and a title alone make one worthy of the position.

Ok. I'm done with this post. I could probably tell you more about Krabi Anuban, Thailand and schools in general, but I've set this piece aside for too long and am now not sure what my original intent was, maybe making a cross cultural comparison? Anyway, have some pictures. I can't decide if they are cute or disturbing.
Hi remember those pictures I just told you about.  Well the blogowebs doesn't upload them like it should.  sorry ---- management------

Monday, May 13, 2013

Welcome to the Jungle

Dear Friends,
Today I met the jungle.  Only a short walk from my host's dormicile.  I stepped off the country road to investigate a stray trail.  And oh!  There it was!  Tangled in clumsy flip-flops I began to regret my lack of forethought regarding my choice of foot wear.

But the Thai people wear flip-flops everywhere.  Don't they?  A memory from the foreigner orientation surfaced.
"Flip-flops, the Thai people think of as shower shoes"
Perhaps this would have been an advisable time to conform with the local fashion.

Pulling my way through vines and leafy branches I sought careful footing on the elusive jungle path.  When I reached up to scratch an itch my fingers were assaulted by the globs of massive red ants that were burrowing through my hair.  Panicked, I shook and slashed at the irritating insects, but the bugs bit my fingers and resumed their march up my arms.

It was at this point that I realized an important truth about The Jungle;

1.  Everything in The Jungle is alive, and it will bite you.

The jungle is full of things that can and will hurt you if you are not 100% careful 100% of the time.  This brings me to the second revelation:

2.  Be on Jungle Alert.  Always.

This means being careful and precise with every movement.  There is no room to think about anything else when you're in The Jungle.

In retrospect, The Jungle could have done a lot worse.  Ants are little more than a playful nip compared to the venomous snakes or poisonous plants not to mention the larger animals like tigers or water-monitors.

After our intimate yet unsolicited encounter I began a tentative re-acquaintance with the vast green beauty.  I learned a few more things, but I lack the words (and the creative energy) to describe them.  So I'll just let the picture do the talking.












The Jungle always wins


Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Some of the stuff I've been doing

This is a new kind of blog post. 

 We stayed in an amazing resort hotel in Trat.  It is about as close to perfect as you can get this side of paradise.  Except for the mosquitos



 And I went to a wedding.  That is boss Somjet on my left and Kareem on my right.  The bride and groom are standing in the back.  Sara, is sitting on the far left.


And we're back in Trat.  Interesting architecture


The whole resort is in the middle of a mangrove.  At high tide the ocean rises and covers everything on the ground.

I asked if I could go swimming in the ocean.  They laughed at me.  But there was a very nice pool.

 I really liked the mangrove.  Mangroves are some of my favorite trees.  They have a special adaptation that allows them to filter salt water.

Mangrove trees supercharge some of their leaves with nutrients.  These leaves die and fall in to the water where they attract fish.  Fish eat the nutritious leaves and fertilize the mangrove roots. 


Sunset in the mangrove



Here is something unique.  I often hear people say, 'Oh, he worships money."  or some such metaphorical way to describe people who spend a lot of time thinking about their economic welfare.  To these people I can now say, "No, the people in Thailand who pay homage to a giant 1500+ year old golden coin worship money.  The person you're thinking of is just greedy."
 Ok, not sure why the computer rearranged the order of these pictures, but ok.  These are the most important people in their respective schools.  I get a kick of encouraging these bigwig directors to jump up and down and do other silly things.


The guy on the far left is a total goofball.


 This picture and the ones that follow are of Watnakornluang Temple.  We were the only human beings there.  The whole temple is built according to very precise geometrical structures.  Most of what follows is are pictures of cool patters in the building.




Christine and I feeling like Indiana Jones











Question:  How does a culture come to the conclusion that: a) feet are dirty and we should avoid showing our feet to anybody and b) the Buddha's footprints are among the holiest sights in Thailand?  It just seems like the Buddha might have left behind any number of things, but the Buddhists chose to revere something that came from feet.


Then we went to feed monkeys

These monkey's used to be an endangered species.  Now they live at a temple.

After feeding the monkeys we went to Thai Hell.  Yes there is Hell in Thailand, it reminds me a bit like Disneyland.

Here we have the tree from Hyperion.

 There are some scenes from the local mythology
 You can light a candle for the monkey god.  Oddly enough the name of the temple is Wat Gai, "Chicken Temple"
And then I went back and fed more monkey?

 Some more mythology
And now we must be in Hell.


Creepy

The whole idea, is that you take your children here at night and you tell them, "If you steal cookies from your brother, giant black demons are going to saw you in half."



What could that mysterious shadow be...

OH My GOD

I found it a little ironic that the monk giving us the tour denounced the evils drug use while smoking a cigarette.

If you have a phobia for needles best not look to closely at this picture.

Just your good old body soup.